Off the rugged coast of County Donegal lies a windswept island where time stands still and modernity feels like a distant memory. Owey Island — or Uaigh, meaning “cave” in Irish — is a place where tradition and tranquility have been lovingly preserved, and where the absence of cars, electricity, and shops becomes part of the charm.
A Step Back in Time
Once home to around 100 people across 30 families, Owey was permanently abandoned in 1977, left to the mercy of the Atlantic winds for over two decades. But slowly, descendants of former residents began returning, restoring old cottages and breathing new life into this remote haven. Today, a seasonal community of 20–30 people has reclaimed the island’s spirit — and they’re welcoming mindful, respectful travellers to join them.
Getting There Is Half the Adventure
Reaching Owey is no simple feat. There’s no ferry — visitors must come by private boat or kayak from Cruit Island, itself connected to the mainland by a small bridge. Once ashore, it’s all dirt paths and foot traffic. But for those seeking off-grid serenity, the effort is well worth the reward.
Living the Simple Life
During a weekend with the Wild Women of the Woods — an Irish organisation that brings women together in wild spaces — I experienced firsthand what makes Owey so magnetic. Our group of 14 stayed in a mix of rustic accommodations: six of us at the Owey Island Cottage Hostel, others camping in nearby gardens. With no running water or power lines, amenities are basic — a compost toilet in the garden, rainwater for showers, solar for light — but every inconvenience is a doorway to deeper connection with the landscape, the community, and oneself.
A Community Reborn
People like Paul Cowan, who lived on Owey in the 1970s and returned decades later, were among the first to revive the island. Today, around 20 cottages have been rebuilt, using materials ferried by boat. The hostel, maintained by islander Niall McGinley, was once his grandmother’s home and stands as a living monument to Owey’s past. Islanders like Frankie Gallagher — whose father was born here — now divide their time between Owey and the mainland, championing sustainable living powered by gas, solar, and rainwater tanks.
Adventure Meets Tranquility
Owey’s appeal lies not just in its stillness, but in its wildness. With no shops or eateries, visitors must bring their own supplies — and their own sense of adventure. Kayakers navigate sea caves, rock climbers scale granite cliffs, and hikers explore undulating hills. And for those simply wanting peace, there are trails to wander, cliffs to gaze from, and stars to count.
Island Activities
- Hiking: Traverse grassy hills or climb to the clifftop lake for breathtaking views.
- Kayaking: Join Selkie Sailing for a guided paddle through dramatic sea caves.
- Climbing: Tackle Owey’s rugged coastline with Unique Ascent.
- Wild swimming: Take a dip in freshwater lagoons surrounded by mossy rocks and ocean panoramas.
Disconnected — and More Connected Than Ever
Despite the absence of electricity, Owey boasts excellent mobile signal. Just remember to bring a portable charger — there’s nowhere to plug in. But as the sun sets and firelight flickers, technology fades into irrelevance. The sky erupts with constellations, and the only sounds are the crashing waves, occasional quad bike hum, and the call of the elusive corn crake bird.
Local Life
Wander the village centre and you’ll find rebuilt homes hugging a stream, wheelbarrows and fishing gear resting by flowerbeds, and the ruins of the old schoolhouse whispering stories of the past. The southern end is grassy and welcoming; the northern, dramatic and wild, with cliffs and sea stacks rising from the Atlantic spray.
Moments That Linger
My personal highlight? A group swim in a clifftop lake, hidden behind granite outcrops with views that stretched across the ocean. We laughed, floated, and marvelled at our surroundings. With no roles to play and no schedule to follow, we embraced island time — a rare kind of freedom.
Evenings on Owey are equally magical. We cooked together under candlelight, shared wine and stories by the fire, and sang into the night with the locals we’d come to know. As the flames danced and voices soared in harmony, someone leaned over and said, “We’re winning, aren’t we?” And in that moment, we were.
Plan Your Escape
- When to go: March to September. Weather can make access tricky in colder months.
- Where to stay: Owey Island Cottage Hostel (up to six guests, self-catering); wild camping near the pier is also permitted.
- What to bring: All food, water, and supplies. There are no shops or restaurants on the island.
- Nearest food: Cruit Island Golf Club offers meals with a view.
Owey is not just a destination — it’s a return. To stillness. To simplicity. To something essential that many of us have lost. Whether you kayak into its caves, hike its hills, or simply listen to the wind whispering through the reeds, you’ll leave changed — lighter, clearer, and full of stories that only a place like Owey can inspire.
